I took the train from Oslo to Finse yesterday, then spent the afternoon hiking up to the Hardangerjøkulen, this huge(25 sq mi) glacier. The terrain was beautiful, and very sparse. At an elevation of 4000+ feet at 60 degrees north, no plants larger than 6 inches in height seem to grow. The only things you could see were rocks, raging glacial melt streams, and greenish moss covering everything. I took a few steps on the glacier, and I really wanted to go further, but Iæm not really set up for that kind of hiking. If I had gaiters and poles I think I would have gone for it!
3 course meal last night in Finse at my hotel. Total bill for 1 night, dinner, breakfast, and a packed lunch was $250. I believe this is actually considered reasonable.
Anyway, hiking to a glacier, what could possibly top that? The Rallarvegen, thatæs what! Itæs a gravel road that they built to create the train line to Finse (and along that high plateau in general). I rented a mountain bike and panniers, and set out on the trail around 9:30am. The first 1km was great, but then the trail got extremely rocky. Without shock absorbers it became kind of painful to navigate, but, the scenery was unmatched. As I gradually descended, the landscape turned from the lunar wasteland of Finse into a greener and lusher terrain. Plants got larger, and after about 10 miles I saw my first tree (I think it was birch). I cycled on and on, for hours, through gorgeous valleys, along cliffs, over glacial rivers, around lakes, past little red barnlike houses, and eventually got to Myrdal, the next town on the railway from Finse. That part of the journey was around 25 miles.
At Myrdal, the railway continues on to Bergen, on the coast, and a spur juts into the Flamsdal, or the Flam valley. But...the Flam valley is like 2000 ft below Myrdal. How do I get down there? 20 switchbacks on the trail is how. I walked the bike for most of them, since it was very rough, and I was a little top heavy with my backpack.
The Flamsdal is ridiculously picturesque. I cycled past little farms for the next 12 miles. Goats greeted me! I canæt even really describe the valley, but imagine in your mindæs eye the most nostalgic Enid Blyton english countryside, rosy cheeked milkman making a delivery while a boy in knickers plays with a terrier. Yeah, it was a little like that, but with 2000 foot cliffs and whitewater rapids.
Eventually I got to Flam, tired, sore, and really wanting a cup of coffee. Flam is kind of a tourist trap, but itæs pretty, and on the fjord. I have a good room about 0.5km away thatæs much quieter. Itæs very spartan, but it overlooks the fjord.